on the lake

There is a huge lake near Galle caled Koggala and whilst there are motorised boats the normal transport is a dug out. I was being taklen to meet a monk who runs a Temple on an island in the middle. The smile on the monk's face was so serene and he exuded a calmness that was reflective of his surroundings. Impossible not to be 'chilled' when sitting on an island. We stayed there for an hour or so soaking up the atmosphere, smiling - embarassingly my ability to communicate in Sinhala fades into silence after only a few words - and living in the moment.

Rowing, or paddling, back we saw this fisherman gently going about his task calmly casting a line, paddling a few yards and back again. Not sure if he caught anything.

In the afternoon as if to show the diversity of Sri Lanka I was driving down a track a few km inland from Galle and stopped by this paddy field. I love paddy fields. Unusually for a green, the colour of paddy is so inviting and warm. On this occasion a peacock had just landed and was picking at the seeds - you might just be able to see it. This was one of those moments when I wished I was a paparazi with a huge camera lens.



We stood watching this beautful bird until the drizle, turning to a downpour, forced us back into the jeep. The delayed monsoon has arrived..thank goodness. The paddy farmers are happy, the peacocks are happy and so are we as the humidity has dropped significantly.

The fruit n veg man

 

Those living in the UK and roughly my age or older will remember the now extinct 'milkman'...soon it would seem to be followed by the Postman.

In our village of Galle Fort...and indeed all villages in Sri Lanka...we have the Fishman; the Prawn-man; for sure we have the Postman. The delivery of post, both here and the UK is incredible really if you think about it. A letter is written and delivered across the world in a matter of days...right up to the door. Amazing.

We also have the Thambili (King Coconut) man and the list goes on and on....

This is a picture of the Fruit n Veg man who pushes his cart around the street shouting 'elolu' (vegetable). My Sinhala, to my shame, is still not good enough after 11 years to enter into the village gossip but there is always a smile during the few exchanges we have.

why rush....

 

One of the many wonderful things about living in Sri Lanka is the pace of life. What's that quote...why do tomorrow what can be put off till the next day...
The pace of life here is calm and gentle, and after the hectic world of 'fast this' and 'instant that', it is wonderful to simply take life a little easier.

Not sure where this guy was going in Galle Fort or what he was doing but whatever it was, he was not stressed and showed absolutely no sign of road rage. More tea?

Lunch?

 

Selling 'lunch packets' these make shift stalls are everywhere in the towns and cities across the country from morning until all have been sold. When we came here 11 years ago the price was about Rs25.. today they are over Rs100.

You will note the different type of packaging that will indicate whether inside is fish or chicken. Both come with rice of course and a healthy - if you are used to it - dose of enough chilli to blow the hairs off your chest...if you have them or elsewhere if you don't.

Generally...and a massive 'generally'.. Sri Lankans outside of the elite see food as fuel. As such it would not be surprising to learn that the only variety is 'rice and curry' or 'curry and rice' - but of course this refers to 'street food'. Sri Lankan food, as anyone who has recently watched Rick Stein's TV show on Sri Lanka, is in fact a wealth of delicious dishes waiting to be discovered. From RS's web site I copied this outlining his chapter on SL:

Rick Stein visits Sri Lanka and discovers a wealth of hot and spicy vegetable curries. In Colombo he meets Chef Publis, one the country's most respected chefs and tastes an unforgettable chilli crab in a small Tamil eatery. Down in Galle he discovers the delights of tea plantations, buffalo curd and experiences first hand the secrets of making cinnamon. Back at home he creates a delicious cashew nut curry to savour the memories of his time in Sri Lanka.


Sri Lankans do not drink when they eat...they drink before, then eat using their right hand - I can vouch all food tastes so much better when feeding by hand - and then leave the table..no long lunches here!

Cinnamon farmer

 

When walking with a friend a few km inland from Galle amongst rice paddy fields the beauty and calming influence of which it is impossible for me to convey here, we came across Ranjit.

Born, grew up, and surely one day to pass on from to the next life probably on this very spot, he was sitting like this under some banana trees outside his house peeling cinnamon bark from the stick. The smell of fresh cinnamon is intoxicating and I can almost smell it now filling my nostrils with its warm and exotic embrace.

The house was not large, but quite typical. A couple of hundred sq feet in total, single story with only one or two windows to a) keep cool and b) keep the monsoon out. The kitchen with its wood burning stove (made of 4 bricks on which to place the pot) was in a separate smaller building.

I had to coax Ranjit to look up from his work but the smile is as genuine as they come. I asked how much for a small bundle of cinnamon and he cheerfully responded -'wisi paha' = Rs25 (15p). 'Ekak onee' - literally meaning 'one want' but roughly translated as 'can I have one bundle please'. 'O O' = yes yes.

He came back a minute later with a small bundle of about 10 pieces held together in an elastic band and we exchanged. I handed him Rs50 as I had no change. He took it, smiled and saying how honest he was and that he would not 'cheat' he pocketed it. I looked at him incredulously and asked him to repeat how much the bundle cost. Rs25 he replied. Again he started speaking as though suddenly discovering he could speak for the first time without drawing breath and praised himself for his honesty. All the while he smiled.

All I could do was turn and walk away laughing at my own foolishness...happy with my Rs25 worth of cinnamon for which I had paid Rs50. Of all the times I have been short changed this was the most enjoyable. Next time I need more cinnamon I know where to go.

The 'local'

 

Arrived back in Galle having been in the UK a week or two and spent the day allowing jetlag to wash over me at Wijaya with Jo. Affectionately known as the 'local', Wijaya consists of a beach bar/restaurant serving such mouth watering dishes as fresh oysters; clams; a seafood platter that consists of tuna, crab, prawns, and calamari sitting on banana leaf and served on a cane weave 'plate'; as well of course as rice and curry.....all washed down with something cold

The beach at Wijaya has on one side a surf break that skims over the reef - nose dives off the board are not recommended. Huge leather back sea turtles swim within the waves and whenever I catch sight of one whilst waiting for the 'big wave' my mind races to that epic movie ' Revenge of the man eating sea turtles'.

On the other side of the bar is this reef protected lagoon...



...due to the shallow depth the water is usually deliciously warm but this being a chilly late september afternoon I had to inhale slightly as I lowered myself into its crystal clear embrace.

Another shitty day in paradise and having been in the UK, it was lovely to get back to reality.

Back home

 

Back in Galle after a short break and on a walk around the ramparts of the Dutch Fort, in which we live, I glanced back across the harbour towards the large and impressive peace pagoda. Donated by the Japanese, this temple is the first sight that greets ships as they enter the harbour mouth. Now that there is no more war in this paradise it is anticipated that before long...that is a Sri Lankan 'long' i.e holding breath would be ill advised... these ships will in fact be yachts on their cruise from the west to the east and vice versa.

Had a BBQ on Bifta Khanda the other day to celebrate something. Not that we need a specific reason for a celebration. Nico adopted his favourite position behind the bar.



This is Bifta himself after whom the Khanda (hill) is named. This photo was taken on the beach in Arugam Bay on the south east coast of the island. About a 6 hour drive from Galle with a pit stop at the fabulous Amanwella hotel in Tangalla.



We went there for sun, sand and surf. On the way we stayed one night in Yala National Park which is known as one of Asia's 'most celebrated wildlife preserves'. Here we saw literally hundreds of crocs; incredible bird life including sea eagles; wild boar like this huge one having a quiet afternoon siesta;




...jackal; Buffalo and the highlight of all, this leopard. Although Yala has one of the worlds highest concentration of this 'big cat' they remain an elusive predator and so to see one is a real treat. We watched it as it lay by a small watering hole before wandering off - probably bored with us watching it.




Talking of being 'shy' I have been a little wary about uploading an image of Jo and myself on here, which perhaps is a little odd considering I am writing about us...so throwing caution to the wind here goes....this is Jo and I with our good friend Manjula taken at the previously mentioned BBQ.